![]() ![]() Neither the Renogy nor my stock isolator care about the voltage of the starter battery so I suppose if it’s borderline the additional load of the charger could make starting even harder. As mentioned any “Battery boost” function (we have a switch on our dash) that would use house batteries to start the vehicle if the start battery is dead won’t work. This is exactly what the stock relay isolator in my RV does except that when the Renogy is engaged current can only flow one way. So if the ignition is off no current is drawn from the starter battery. It takes a positive current from the vehicle ignition switch to start charging. I don’t know what the consequences if any would be if both were used but the Renogy DC-DC charger has isolation built in. Most discussions I have seen talk about either/or not both. I am in the same process and pondering the same question. #2) If I install a DC>DC charger, do I remove the 20 year old battery isolator? Or do I use them both somehow? #1) Do I correctly understand the situation and the role of the DC>DC charger? They advise installing a DC>DC charger, like this one, to regulate current draw from the alternator to the batteries. Some experts believe LiFeP04s can draw so much current when charging that they damage the alternator. Now I am considering upgrading my batteries to LiFePO4, and I understand this system might not cut it anymore. There is an isolator that prevents the house electrical from draining the starter battery. So my Covid-19 project is to upgrade it all.Ĭurrently, the alternator charges both the starter and the house batteries. State of the art for the year 2000, that is. I have a Roadtrek Class B motorhome with a state of the art electrical system. I have extensively RTFF and learned a lot. ![]() Hi Gang! Newbie here and this is my first post. ![]()
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